2008 Trip Note

Base Camp: 27 December 2008 - North Island , New Zealand

Contributor: Marjie Courtis, Jan Colquhoun

Source: "The News", February 2009; March 2009

Photogallery:

PART 1: Lake Waikaremoana

“Why-Carry-Mo’- Anna” was my phonetic solution to remembering how to pronounce Lake Waikaremoana, after many failed communication attempts with outdoorshop proprietors and with Brian Wallbank - a leader you could bank on.

Brian led us on a Great Walk, literally, in December 2008. The Lake Waikaremoana walk is in The Urewera National Park in the North Island, andis one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks in the classification system used by the Department of Conservation. (According to the latest Oxladism, this is the Department of Conversation.I thought it was a slip until I realised it was a quip! ).

Phonetics aside, Lake Waikaremoana in the Maori language, means “sea of rippling waters. The track is 46 kilometres long and follows a good proportion of the lake’s outline, at lakelevel ( 614 metres above sea level ) and at view- point level Trampers take in the stunning views near Panekiri hut, at 1180 metres above sea level. We began our three day walk by taking a water taxi ride from the motor camp by the lake, where we stocked up on well-priced dehydrated meals, setting off in enough rain to rehydrate more than just our meals. Debbie was also seen with her soon-to-be-infamous umbrella keeping her dry inside the water taxi.

Day one involved an afternoon walk of about 10 km and we put our tents up in the rain, creating a delightfully autumnal array of yellow, orange and green tents, while cooking, sheltering, and banging our heads on, the Maori-style cooking hut. Day 2 was more of a challenge for the overloaded among us as we walked 18km in rain and some mud. Personally, I skipped the waterfall to arrive into a lovely camp site near the lake’s ‘beach” where a refreshing swim was on offer. Yoga exercises were also held that night!

On Day 3 we beached our packs for their boat pick-up later that day. We had some climbing ahead over Panekiri Bluff, with beech forest, dense rainforest, a myriad of ferns and secretive but audible birdlife. Panekiri Hut was a stopover for a great view and lunch. On our way down, we appreciated Brian’s choice of direction . Those climbing up as we descended were looking a little tired.

After that day’s 15 km walk, our backpacks were there as promised at the motor camp, and we did our best to stay awake for our NY Eve celebrations. Most were in bed shortly after midnight, but not before one of our party performed an umbrella dance.

Our next day, a well-planned rest day, saw us taking in numerous walks around the motor camp itself, delightful walks, shorter and longer, to falls, ancient trees, old encampments. So the Lake Waikaremoana motor camp, proved it could also be an excellent base camp.

This walk was only one of two Great Walks we did during our two weeks in New Zealand. It was an action-packed fortnight. Brian had organised little holidays within a holiday. Not simply day walks, three day walks, four day walks and sidewalks (e.g. to Mt. Maunganui), but also boating, swimming, fishing, thermal pools, a winery, an Art Deco tour - and more, more,more!!

Brian’s sister Pat and brother-in-law Alan were our fun-loving co-hosts for four nights camping, a hangi (Maori style food cooked underground) , two boat trips, mini-bus drives and lots of fun and frivolity.

We gave our club lots of free advertising in New Zealand. We couldn’t stop talking about what a great club we belong to. You can see why!

Thank you Brian and all my fellow ‘trampers’, for walking with me in the ‘back country’ of New Zealand.

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PART 2: Week 2

As we left Lake Taupo for the start of the Tongariro Northern Circuit it began to rain as we approached the Mangatepopo Road. It rained some more, again and again. It belted down; we lunched in the buses before completing a half hour walk through the mists to the Mangatepopo Hut. The carefully partitioned camp sites had been turned into swimming pools so we all set up camp in the hut. Most people then set out with brian to walk the first section of the circuit from Whakapapa village back to the hut. The four hour walk through mud and slush found the tracks turned into knee high streams. Everyone was soaked through; that is except for Mohammad who rock hopped the whole way, returning with dry boots. He had to hide them for the rest of the evening as people threatened to soak them! Fortunately, for the rest of the pack carry we were blessed with perfect sunny weather.

The following morning we commenced the long climb out of the alpine moors across stark black lava flows onto the Tongariro crossing. After two days of bad weather so did over forty bus loads of tourists with day packs. They jostled with us for footing much of the way as the track resembled a main street. We all reached our lunch spot at the central crater from which there were magnificent views of Mt Ngauruhoe(the archetypal volcano which even though it is taller it’s actually just a secondary vent for Mt Tongariro) and the Red Crater. Many of us took a side trip up Mt Tongariro for further stunning views. We then made our way down a steep spree slope, with steaming hot sands beneath us, towards the Emerald Lakes(water filled explosion pits). At this point we departed the Tongariro crossing for the Oturere Hut via the Rangipo Desert. It was reminiscent of a Moroccan landscape with areas of pink, green and red rock formations. More vegetation began to take grip as we approached the hut.

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The following day was a short walk across lava flows to the Waihohonu Hut. We walked the desert until we reached young beech forest, a fertile area that had escaped the lava flows. The group enjoyed a day walk to the Old Waihohonu Hut; segregated into two sections the male side had a fireplace and the female quarters only a mirror! Brave people then went for a swim in the freezing Ohinepango Springs with Helen winning the endurance prize for a five minute dip.

On the final day we had a steady walk through alpine grasslands with the Mt Whakapapa ski fields in sight. We lunched at lower Toma Lake before a surprise meeting with Pat and Jan who had walked up from the car park. Together we completed the track and had celebratory drinks at the Chalet. For the next few days we enjoyed the full program of tourism that Brian had planned for us; the best of everything. We enjoyed the thermal spas at De Bretts, wine tasting, Wai- 0-Tapu Thermal wonderland, a pod ride up a mountain and Luge race down and my favorite the Humarana Springs walk. It went through a Redwood forest to the source of the crystal clear springs. You could watch the trout chasing each other in circles. On our last day we went on a walk through the Kiamias Ranges to view the remains of some old Kauri trees and an array of fungus before taking a cruise around the harbor with views of Mt Manganui. Then we headed for the harbor utilities block to freshen up before a meal in a local restaurant. It was here that Fang, usually a peaceful sort, had her day! There came sudden screaming from a shower block with water flying in every direction as a tap came off a fawcett. Brian, freshly showered in his best lavender shirt, was called to the rescue. Fang whipped a towel around her at the speed of light. Brian managed to fix the tap, a task well beyond the call of duty, but he was soaked in the process. I’m sure he couldn’t wait to get us back on the plane!

We, of course, thank Brian and Pat immensely for their fabulous organization and hospitality. We enjoyed everything including the camaraderie as we shared laughs, tips and squirms.